I have a feeling that the weather really plays a big part in my experiences in new places. Yesterday I flew to Puerto Montt (about the same price as bussing it and saved me about 18 hours) and it was suddenly humid. Cloudy and humid. I stayed in what turned out to be a real dive hotel that smelled like mold, had no TP or hot water. Also I suppose I was pretty tired from taxi, plane and bus. So maybe all these factors influenced my dislike of Puerto Montt, or as some have said, Muerto Montt. I wandered around the streets and the shore for awhile, had some fried fish and went to bed.Today, on the other hand, I'm quite happy. And it probably has something to do with the first "partly sunny" day I've seen in awhile. I got up early and took a bus (and ferry) to Chiloe Island, found a very comfy 
hospedaje and immediately took a shower and drank a comforting mate. There are pros and cons of traveling alone. One con is boredom, and only a few hours into this solo mission, with nothing to do in Puerto Montt, I was feeling it. At least if Lou was around we could've whipped out the Spanish Scrabble. One pro of traveling alone is increased flexibility and if I end up in a dive hotel, or reach a dead
end, I don't have to feel responsible for anyone but myself. For example, today I went to wander Castro. I looked at the church, some houses on stilts, then realized I was on a highway that headed toward a scenic overlook. I quickly got a ride out there, took one picture and headed back. Only I was in a construction zone, with each direction taking turns every 5 minutes or so. Nobody wanted to stop for me. So I walked back towards town. 20 minutes later I talked to a couple of construction workers who offered to stop traffic for me! They got me a ride pretty quickly with their authoritative orange jumpers.
hospedaje and immediately took a shower and drank a comforting mate. There are pros and cons of traveling alone. One con is boredom, and only a few hours into this solo mission, with nothing to do in Puerto Montt, I was feeling it. At least if Lou was around we could've whipped out the Spanish Scrabble. One pro of traveling alone is increased flexibility and if I end up in a dive hotel, or reach a dead
end, I don't have to feel responsible for anyone but myself. For example, today I went to wander Castro. I looked at the church, some houses on stilts, then realized I was on a highway that headed toward a scenic overlook. I quickly got a ride out there, took one picture and headed back. Only I was in a construction zone, with each direction taking turns every 5 minutes or so. Nobody wanted to stop for me. So I walked back towards town. 20 minutes later I talked to a couple of construction workers who offered to stop traffic for me! They got me a ride pretty quickly with their authoritative orange jumpers.Thanks to the teachings of my buddies in Coyhaique, I had my first solo hitchhike. Short, but confidence-building. So I'm thinking about a longer trip tomorrow.
Food: Ok, people. I have to tell you about what might be the greatest Chilean invention. On Sunday 
La Mama made pulmay, also known as curanto. This meal is a kind of soup I suppose, but oh so much more. I think the recipe goes something like this: take everything, put it in a pot, cook, enjoy. Ok, maybe 
not everything, but it did have sausages, potatoes, beef, pork, chicken, smoked pork ribs, onions, white wine and clams. We were each served a heaping portion. I'm not sure if I'd ever eaten big clams before, but they were tasty (and fun to eat!). The others commented on how my face was turning red and maybe I broke out a little in reaction to the seafood, but I didn't care. The broth was so good that I ignored the hot sauce on the table. Then I succumbed to the classic aftereffect of Pulmay; tiredness, as the body attempts to digest to vitamins and proteins. I vowed that I wouldn't eat again for three days, but 6 or 7 hours later, there I was again, having part two, although this time the clams had all day to mellow with the rest of the meal and emerged even tastier. I'm going to miss the Mama's cooking.
La Mama made pulmay, also known as curanto. This meal is a kind of soup I suppose, but oh so much more. I think the recipe goes something like this: take everything, put it in a pot, cook, enjoy. Ok, maybe 
not everything, but it did have sausages, potatoes, beef, pork, chicken, smoked pork ribs, onions, white wine and clams. We were each served a heaping portion. I'm not sure if I'd ever eaten big clams before, but they were tasty (and fun to eat!). The others commented on how my face was turning red and maybe I broke out a little in reaction to the seafood, but I didn't care. The broth was so good that I ignored the hot sauce on the table. Then I succumbed to the classic aftereffect of Pulmay; tiredness, as the body attempts to digest to vitamins and proteins. I vowed that I wouldn't eat again for three days, but 6 or 7 hours later, there I was again, having part two, although this time the clams had all day to mellow with the rest of the meal and emerged even tastier. I'm going to miss the Mama's cooking.
1 comment:
It looks like Muerto Montt. Valpo without the cute.
Chiloe sounds cool. What's the nature like?
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